Do You Push or Pull When Stick Welding: Complete Guide and Tips
Most stick welding is done by dragging the electrode, not pushing it. Keep the electrode angled slightly back toward the area already welded so the arc leads the rod while the coating and slag follow behind.
If you are asking, do you push or pull when stick welding, the practical answer is usually “pull.” That technique is called a drag or backhand technique, and it helps maintain the correct arc length, bead shape, and slag coverage.
Do You Push or Pull When Stick Welding?
For typical shielded metal arc welding (SMAW), pull the electrode along the joint. Hold it so the tip points slightly toward the direction you are traveling, while the electrode holder trails behind the arc.
A common starting point is a travel angle of about 10 to 15 degrees. In other words, the electrode is tilted slightly away from the direction of travel. The arc melts the base metal and electrode ahead of the rod, while the flux coating creates shielding gas and slag behind it.
This arrangement gives the molten weld pool time to solidify under the protection of the slag. It also makes it easier to see and control the leading edge of the puddle.
Pushing the electrode can disturb the shielding effect and force slag into the weld pool. It may also produce a flatter, wider bead with less reliable penetration. A push angle is not automatically wrong in every welding process, but it is generally not the default technique for stick welding.
Why Stick Welding Uses a Drag Technique
The flux coating on a stick electrode serves several purposes. It helps shield the arc from the atmosphere, forms slag over the cooling weld metal, and can influence the arc characteristics and bead profile.
When you drag the electrode, the slag naturally follows the arc. This supports a clean progression from the leading edge of the puddle to the finished portion of the bead. The coating remains positioned where it can provide shielding instead of being driven into the molten metal.
Dragging also helps maintain a short, consistent arc. A long arc can cause excessive spatter, undercut, porosity, and an unstable sound. A short arc improves control, but the exact distance depends on the electrode type and diameter.
The drag angle is only one part of the technique. Current setting, electrode polarity, travel speed, work angle, joint fit-up, and welding position all affect the final result. Pulling the rod cannot compensate for an incorrect amperage or poor surface preparation.
Correct Electrode Angle
Two angles matter during stick welding: the travel angle and the work angle.
Travel angle
The travel angle describes how much the electrode leans in the direction of movement. For many flat and horizontal welds, a slight drag angle of approximately 10 to 15 degrees is a useful starting point.
Do not hold the rod nearly horizontal. A steep angle can make the puddle difficult to control, while too much drag can lengthen the arc and encourage slag to roll ahead of the weld. The best angle is the one that keeps the arc stable and lets you see the front of the molten pool.
Work angle
The work angle describes the electrode’s position across the joint. For a basic fillet weld, the electrode is often centered near a 45-degree angle between the two pieces. The exact angle may change with joint geometry, material thickness, and welding position.
Keep the electrode centered enough to fuse both sides of the joint. If it points too much toward one piece, the other side may show poor fusion or insufficient leg size.
Flat and Horizontal Welding
Flat-position stick welding is usually the easiest place to learn the pull technique. Strike the arc, establish a stable puddle, and move at a steady speed while maintaining a slight drag angle.
Watch the leading edge of the puddle rather than the bright arc alone. The puddle should remain controlled and should not run far ahead of the electrode. If the bead becomes excessively wide, uneven, or piled up, adjust travel speed, arc length, or amperage.
For a horizontal fillet weld, gravity can pull the molten metal downward. A modest drag angle and controlled travel speed help keep the puddle from sagging. The work angle must also keep the arc directed into both sides of the joint.
After the weld cools enough to handle safely, remove the slag with a chipping hammer and wire brush. Never assume a smooth-looking slag layer proves the weld underneath is sound. Inspect for visible pores, cracks, undercut, incomplete fusion, and inconsistent bead width.
Vertical Stick Welding
Vertical welding requires more puddle control than flat welding. For vertical-up work, the electrode is generally still dragged, but the motion is slower and more deliberate. Many welders use a small weave, triangle, or side-to-side motion to support the molten metal.
Keep the arc short and avoid allowing the puddle to become too large. Pause briefly at each side of a weave when necessary, then move across the center without lingering long enough to let the metal sag.
Vertical-down welding can use a faster travel speed and is sometimes selected for thinner material or specific applications. It is not suitable for every joint, thickness, or electrode. Follow the welding procedure and the electrode manufacturer’s instructions because vertical-down techniques can affect penetration and weld strength.
Position changes can also change the best angle. A technique that works in the flat position may produce excessive heat, slag entrapment, or lack of fusion when used vertically without adjustment.
Electrode Type Matters
Different stick electrodes respond differently to arc length, current, polarity, and motion. The basic drag principle remains common, but the amount of drag and the required travel technique can vary.
6010 and 6011 electrodes
E6010 and E6011 electrodes are known for forceful arcs and are often used where penetration and root control are important. A slight drag is common, although some procedures use a controlled whip-and-pause motion.
With these electrodes, avoid a long arc and avoid moving so quickly that the puddle fails to fuse with the sidewalls. The correct motion depends on the joint, position, pipe or plate procedure, and the result required.
6013 electrodes
E6013 electrodes generally provide a smoother, softer arc and are often used for general-purpose welding. A light drag with steady travel can produce a clean bead when the amperage and fit-up are correct.
7018 electrodes
E7018 low-hydrogen electrodes are commonly used for structural and critical applications when the applicable procedure calls for them. Use a short arc and a controlled drag rather than a long, loose motion.
Do not whip a 7018 electrode unless a qualified procedure specifically requires a particular technique. Excessive manipulation can make it harder to maintain consistent fusion and bead shape. Keep low-hydrogen electrodes stored and handled according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
When Pushing May Appear to Work
A slight forward angle can sometimes seem to produce a smoother or flatter bead, especially on thin material. However, the appearance of the bead alone does not confirm adequate penetration or fusion.
Some specialized procedures, electrode instructions, or unusual positions may call for a different angle or movement. There are also welding processes, such as some gas metal arc welding applications, where pushing is common. That guidance should not automatically be transferred to stick welding.
If a qualified welding procedure specifies a push angle, follow that procedure. Otherwise, start with a slight drag and adjust only as needed while keeping the arc length and puddle under control.
Common Problems From Pushing
- Slag inclusions: Slag can become trapped when the electrode pushes the molten pool in a way that prevents proper cleaning and fusion.
- Incomplete fusion: An incorrect angle or excessive travel speed can leave the weld attached mainly to the surface rather than fused into the joint.
- Excessive spatter: A long or unstable arc can throw molten metal outside the intended bead.
- Undercut: Too much heat, an incorrect angle, or excessive travel speed can wash metal away along the edge of the joint.
- Poor penetration: A bead can look wide and smooth while failing to reach the required depth.
- Slag ahead of the arc: If slag runs in front of the puddle, it can block visibility and interfere with fusion.
These problems can also result from incorrect amperage, dirty steel, poor joint preparation, a damp electrode, or an arc that is too long. Change one variable at a time so the cause is easier to identify.
Simple Stick Welding Technique
- Clean rust, paint, oil, moisture, and heavy mill scale from the joint when the welding procedure requires clean base metal.
- Select the electrode, polarity, and amperage recommended for the material and joint.
- Position the electrode with the appropriate work angle and a slight drag angle.
- Strike the arc and establish a short, stable arc length.
- Move steadily while watching the front edge of the puddle and the bead boundaries.
- Maintain the angle as consistently as possible instead of rotating the holder throughout the pass.
- Stop in a controlled manner, remove slag safely, and inspect the completed bead.
Practice on similar scrap before welding a required joint. Listen for a consistent arc sound and watch whether the puddle wets both sides evenly. If the slag is difficult to remove, the bead has irregular edges, or the arc repeatedly goes out, check the arc length and settings before changing to a push motion.
Safety and Procedure Checks
Wear a properly rated welding helmet, flame-resistant clothing, gloves, and protective footwear. Provide ventilation appropriate for the material and electrode, and remove combustible items from the work area.
Do not weld containers, tanks, or enclosed spaces unless they have been properly evaluated and prepared. Welding can create toxic fumes, fire hazards, and electrical risks even when the bead looks small.
For structural, pressure, load-bearing, or code-regulated work, use the applicable qualified welding procedure. The procedure controls more than whether the electrode is pushed or pulled; it may also specify electrode classification, current, polarity, preheat, interpass temperature, position, and inspection requirements.
FAQ
Should you always pull a stick electrode?
Pulling is the normal starting technique for most stick welding. A slight drag helps keep slag behind the arc and supports consistent penetration. Follow a qualified procedure if it specifies a different motion.
How much should you drag the electrode?
Use a small drag angle, often around 10 to 15 degrees for common flat and horizontal work. Keep the arc short and adjust the angle only enough to maintain a stable puddle and clear view of the leading edge.
Can you push with a 7018 rod?
A controlled drag is the usual technique for E7018. Do not assume a push angle or whip motion is appropriate unless the welding procedure or electrode instructions specifically allow it.
Why does slag get trapped when I stick weld?
Slag can become trapped because of incorrect travel angle, excessive travel speed, a long arc, poor sidewall fusion, an overly large weave, or inadequate cleaning between passes. Pushing the electrode can make slag move ahead of the arc and increase the problem.
Conclusion
For most applications, the answer to do you push or pull when stick welding is to pull the electrode with a slight drag angle. Maintain a short arc, control the puddle, clean slag between passes, and follow the electrode and welding procedure instructions for the specific joint.
